Eats · Europe · Restaurants

Review: Hoja Santa, Barcelona

A few delectable morsels to start off the Hoja Santa adventure (from top left): corn fritter; blood orange and coriander sorbet; chili sauce for the table and a shot-bowl of tequila and pomegranate for good measure; house pickled vegetables.

As soon as we walked through the doors of Hoja Santa I was transported to Mexico, or at least how I imagined Mexico to be having never been there. Diners around us were lounging around, sipping on margaritas as very efficient waitstaff brought plate after plate of delicious looking morsels. I felt instantly relaxed and could not wait to start on this food journey!

Hoja Santa is one of two Michelin-starred joints associated with Albert Adria in Barcelona (the other being the neighbouring Tickets). The modern but chilled restaurant resonates with beach vibes and offers an extensive menu of Mexican bites. The long list of offerings can be somewhat overwhelming for first-timers and we opted for the tasting menu (‎€110 p.p.) to minimize the need to think for ourselves.

As someone who has hot sauce at the office to spice up anything and everything in bland Geneva land, I very much appreciated that the first thing we got was a little bowl of green pepper sauce with the advice to use as we like throughout the meal: it will go with everything. This was accompanied by house picked vegetables, deliciously tangy and spicy bits so good that I wished they replenished the supply throughout the meal.

Cloud of tequila and lime.

A shot of tequila with pomegranate and a crunchy corn fritter (definitely not your average) came next, followed by a scrumptious cloud(!) of tequila and lime. It looked quite solid, like mochi, but once you scooped it into your mouth it was light as air and dissipated into a burst of freshness (and tequila!) in the mouth. Then we had the fully edible slice of blood orange and coriander sorbet, the palate cleanser which signaled that things were about to get even more serious.

Sea urchin toast with avocado; avocado, cheese and fava beans.

First up: sea urchin toast with avocado and jalapeño cavier. They might be a bit divisive and somewhat uncommon on European menus in Europe, but I am a big fan of urchin and my eyes lit up at the sight of the generous serving of roe. Demolished in about 4 seconds, and that is with a concerted effort to savour the wonderful flavours.

Chia caviar with broth in rock.

The next dish was a bit of a mystery. I am sure the waitress said something about chia caviar, and it sort of looked and tasted like that, but if you have any idea please let me know! This was accompanied by a spicy broth in the rock. Again, we didn’t catch what the actual ingredients were and were not able to discern it on taste, but it was delicious.

A smooth, creamy bowl of avocado, cheese and fava beans followed. Surprisingly filling, the flavours worked together really well to give a hearty savoury effect. I was also given an empanada stuffed with pork and black beans, which looked so appetizing I stopped paying attention to the waitress as she explained the non-pork alternative to Mr. A. It was a broth of some description I think and even though I am certain it was delicious, I couldn’t help but feel sorry that he couldn’t partake in my fried pastry.

Suckling pig taco.

But then the taco with suckling pig came and I think I started to hyperventilate with happiness. It’s probably really common in Mexico cuisine but the tortilla had a pig stamped on it. So cute! Anyway. The suckling pig was super juicy and the crackling extremely crunchy, oil was oozing out and dripping in and around my mouth. It also came with pickled cabbage and its own hot sauce to assemble your own taco. De-lish. No idea what pig-less treat Mr. A. was having but we were able to enjoy the same things for the rest of the menu.

Cockles with pineapple juice, corn and coriander; green mole with quail egg, fava beans and crispy beef.

The refreshing, clean flavours of cockles with pineapple juice, corn and coriander in an oyster shell – a standout in Mr. A’s opinion – was followed by a hearty artichoke with pistachio and lemon verbena.

And then we were treated to the first of five moles. The first was green and served with a soft-boiled quail egg, fava beans and crispy beef. The second was brown to accompany perfectly cooked hake with olives and apple air.

Clockwise from top: Crispy puff with meat filling; avocado with pistachio and black mole; hake with olives and apple air.

A crispy puff with meat filling, like a Mexican pani purri, was placed in front of me, followed by a lice of pistachio-coated avocado with black garlic mole, which was made with more than 70 ingredients including chocolate. So good!

Squab with black garlic and chocolate mole.

Next was my favourite dish, and the final main (but not mole!): squab with a mole made with peanuts, dried fruits and probably dozens of other ingredients. Every cut of the squab was perfectly cooked and paired sublimely with the mole.

Mandarin popsicle with pumpkin oil and seeds, and pepita and honey cookie.

Dessert time! We start with a mandarin popsicle with pumpkin oil and seeds, a first in this flavour combination for me and utterly delicious, rich but refreshing. This was coupled with an utterly yum pepita and honey cookie.

Then we were treated to the queen of desserts: corn pudding with black truffle. Another first. It was like a corn custard accentuated with black truffle, with a lovely savoury note that I enjoy in desserts.

Clockwise from top: Sweet mole with chocolate ice cream and meringue; gold-dusted cacao and honey cookie with cacao tea; corn pudding with black truffle.

Finally, the last mole, a sweet one with chocolate ice cream, chocolate soil and meringue. As if my taste buds were not already on hyperdrive with all the new flavours it’s experienced, we finished off with cacao flower tea and a cacao and honey cookie, which were incredible, and finally a hibiscus meringue and chocolate truffle with peanuts

So many morsels of utter deliciousness made up this thoroughly memorable and enjoyable gastronomic adventure. Even in a city as rich in delights as Barcelona, I can’t imagine a better way to spend an afternoon.

Aside from a tiny hiccup at the start when we waited some time for our cocktails to arrive, the service was impeccable. Plates were cleared efficiently and the next course served with just enough moments in between to whet the appetite, but we were never left wanting. The margaritas are delicious, and we also partook in an outstanding yet extremely reasonably priced bottle of whiter Spanish wine that was recommended by the sommelier. The drinks list is extensive and there is are also paring options for the tasting menu.

Cannot wait to go back and also try the other Adria joints!

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