My husband and I share pretty similar taste when it comes to all things culinary. Not necessarily at the micro level but we generally like the same ingredients and rate the same restaurants, the same crockery, the same wines. But Restaurant AT was controversial the first time we visited, not long after it opened, and continued to be divisive – in the best way – when we returned years later.
Rarely has a meal been so memorable and provocative.
Hinoki infused skin with ice cream and blue berry cake, Restaurant AT, ParisIt all started with this grey dish of hinoki skin infused with ice cream and blue berry cake. This dish featured on the menu both times we visited and its still one of the most unforgettable things I’ve ever eaten. It was the perfect dish for me: I didn’t know what I was looking at or tasting but it resembled an artwork, was delicious, a not too sweet dessert with flavours that I’ve never had before. I had to look up what hinoki was (a cypress) but it didn’t demystify the dish or flavours at all. It was so memorable for me that there was a silent understanding we would be going to Restaurant AT likely every time we were in Paris.
Husband did not like it at all.
For dinner there is only one tasting menu of 11 courses (plus an optional 12th) offered, along with wine pairing.
The mean started with Leek / Brown Butter, tender sticks of leek marinated in beetroot juice. Not particularly inspired and we moved on quickly.
Zucchini tartlette with white celery granita, Restaurant AT, ParisNext was a zucchini tartlette with white celery granita. A very solid hors d’oeuvre, buttery tart shell and wonderful combination of vibrant flavours and textures. Rated well by both parties. We elected to have the optional course of foie gras, half cooked with an orange date condiment and meringue with pepper. We can rarely resist foie gras and was curious about the rendition of someone as inventive as AT but it was underwhelming.
Cockels with fresh tomatoes and tomato water with targette flowers and leaves, Restaurant AT, ParisThe first seafood course was cockels with fresh tomatoes and tomato water, followed by a very salty abalone with eggplant and razor clams. Both were our least favourite dishes of the night.
Smoked trout juniper berries white cheese snow parsley oil, Restaurant AT, Paris
But there was redemption in the next four seafood courses. The first is the other signature dish. “Camouflage” was also on the menu years ago and I venture to guess is a mainstay, with the key ingredients adapted but always covered in a layer of meringue in camouflage greens. Our version was smoked trout with juniper berries, a white cheese snow and parsley oil. A standout. Again, unique combination of flavours and textures, the snow melts away on the palate. Very memorable.
Blue lobster brittany bisque peaches tonka beansThis was followed by a blue lobster with a Brittany style bisque, peaches and tonic beans. Wonderful. Perfectly cooked lobster, delicate bisque, and light sweetness.
Mussels dijon mustard green beans broccoli puree broccoli flowers, Restaurant AT, ParisNext was mussels with dijon mustard, green beans, broccoli puree and broccoli flowers, followed by red mullet with fennel cream, fresh fennel in a bouillabaisse. Both delicious. Every element perfectly cooked and balanced, clean flavours.
Lamb loin kidney rosemary jus, Restaurant AT, ParisThe final main was a slice of lamb loin, kidney and a rosemary jus. The lamb was so tender, just the right amount of fat. Delicious.
The first dessert was the controversial hinoki skin. The tasting menu concluded with a beetroot and raspberry dish. Good but disappointingly expected after going on such an imaginative journey.
Beetroot with raspberry sorbet, beetroot leather, Restaurant AT, Paris
AT is thought-provoking and ambitious. Some might consider it gimmicky and at times dishes misses the basics in its constant endeavour to achieve artistic inventiveness. But it is very memorable, never boring and makes for very interesting conversation. Well worth a try with the brilliant wine matching.
Anna Eats (&) Travels 