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Eats · Europe · Restaurants

Review: Restaurant L’initial, Paris

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Main course of degustation menu at Restaurant L'initial, Paris
Pigeon breast, pigeon confit leg and vegetables, Restaurant L’initial, Paris

An elegant and unassuming establishment in the heart of Paris. We were staying in the Latin Quarter and I was randomly clicking on restaurants in Google Maps when I found Restaurant L’initial, which had stellar reviews, just down the road.

The chef is Japanese, hinted at in some dishes like gyoza and ingredients like daikon, and much more evident in the clean flavours. But the bulk of the menu and the classic setting is decidedly French. There is only one (very affordable for the calibre) set menu but they are very adaptable to dietary requirements. The wine list is extensive and the service was faultless. There are a lot of white tablecloths, white napkins and silverware but the atmosphere is very relaxed and unpretentious, the tables are positioned at very respectful distances from each other to facilitate lots of intimate conversations among the mixed weeknight crowd of young couples, business diners, locals and visitors.

We tasted 6 courses plus an amuse bouche and a very delicious palate cleanser – peach sorbet with peach jelly, which actually ended up as one of the stand-outs of the evening.

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Eats · Europe · Restaurants

Review: Restaurant AT, Paris

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My husband and I share pretty similar taste when it comes to all things culinary. Not necessarily at the micro level but we generally like the same ingredients and rate the same restaurants, the same crockery, the same wines. But Restaurant AT was controversial the first time we visited, not long after it opened, and continued to be divisive – in the best way – when we returned years later. 
 
Rarely has a meal been so memorable and provocative.
 
First dessert of degustation menu at Restaurant AT, Paris
Hinoki infused skin with ice cream and blue berry cake, Restaurant AT, Paris
It all started with this grey dish of hinoki skin infused with ice cream and blue berry cake. This dish featured on the menu both times we visited and  its still one of the most unforgettable things I’ve ever eaten. It was the perfect dish for me: I didn’t know what I was looking at or tasting but it resembled an artwork, was delicious, a not too sweet dessert with flavours that I’ve never had before. I had to look up what hinoki was (a cypress) but it didn’t demystify the dish or flavours at all.  It was so memorable for me that there was a silent understanding we would be going to Restaurant AT likely every time we were in Paris. 
 
Husband did not like it at all. 

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