My husband and I share pretty similar taste when it comes to all things culinary. Not necessarily at the micro level but we generally like the same ingredients and rate the same restaurants, the same crockery, the same wines. But Restaurant AT was controversial the first time we visited, not long after it opened, and continued to be divisive – in the best way – when we returned years later.
Rarely has a meal been so memorable and provocative.
Hinoki infused skin with ice cream and blue berry cake, Restaurant AT, ParisIt all started with this grey dish of hinoki skin infused with ice cream and blue berry cake. This dish featured on the menu both times we visited and its still one of the most unforgettable things I’ve ever eaten. It was the perfect dish for me: I didn’t know what I was looking at or tasting but it resembled an artwork, was delicious, a not too sweet dessert with flavours that I’ve never had before. I had to look up what hinoki was (a cypress) but it didn’t demystify the dish or flavours at all. It was so memorable for me that there was a silent understanding we would be going to Restaurant AT likely every time we were in Paris.
The picturesque town of Cully sits on the north bank of Lake Geneva (Lac Leman) among the terraced vineyards of the Lavaux, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Every year in April, it hosts the Cully Jazz Festival, a more local and genuine jazz affair than the giant in neighbouring Montreux.
It is a really cool and somewhat quintessential local experience to sit on the banks of the lake with a bottle of wine, listening to live (and for the most part free!) jazz music, watching the sun set behind the Alps. There are rather too many teenagers with plastic bags of beer, but they’re easy to ignore if you focus on the stunning view in front of your.
We caught a Friday night performance and took the opportunity to stay overnight, mostly to have an excuse to lunch at l’Auberge du Raisin. In the centre of town, the institution oozes old world charm, very traditional French in setting and cuisine even though we are technically in Swissland. It has a massive dining room, attached to the hotel, with a lovely terrace but alas, no lake view. By all accounts the food is commendable, even though it was suspiciously empty on a fine Saturday during the festival. But apparently April is not peak season for Lavaux tourism so that might explain that.
Tacos! at El CatrineThis tiny 20-seater oozes with charm and genuineness. Yes the decor is bordering on kitsch, revolving around familiar day of the dead motifs, but it’s cheery and atmospheric. The waitstaff are genuinely nice and helpful. The guy who took our order offered welcomed advice for navigating the menu and we took him up on pretty much everything.
To start, he suggested we try the trio of guacamole: original, spicy and exotic (i.e. with mango). This went against all my instincts of just getting the spicy but what the hey. It was our first and possibly only meal at this place so better to have no regrets. Predictably, the original guac was somewhat of a let down. The flavour was avocado. It was guac for children or very boring adults. The exotic was actually surprisingly pleasant, slightly sweet and not worth re-ordering, but definitely not a disappointment. The spicy was by far the best. Legitimately spicy! Rare in Geneva. Continue reading “Review: El Catrine Restuarant, Geneva”
Clockwise from top left: amuse bouche of rice cracker, celery and mackerel (I think…we couldn’t understand the waiter or discern the flavours); smoked salmon with celeriac puree and endive; white asparagus with hazelnuts and beetroot; tofu with gritty mussels.
If you only have thirty seconds, then know this: the headline for this review is “Bland food, slow service.” If you can stick around a little bit longer, here is the detailed breakdown.
Le Neptune was a place that friends of friends had recommended. Then it came up on Buyclub and we thought, hey! This is meant to be. Or not…the first time we reserved the restaurant cancelled on us quite last minute. Is this a thing now? For restaurants to cancel your reservation after it was confirmed? Anyway. Since we’d already shelled out for the Buyclub deal we made another reservation two weeks later.
As the name declares, Le Neptune’s focus is seafood. They are very passionate about presenting “a living cuisine, balanced and close to nature, which is also creative, innovative and unconventional.” and their copywriter should get a raise. Even though I’m not sure I completely understand it, the philosophy sounds bang on. Unfortunately, that’ss where the positives ended.
A few delectable morsels to start off the Hoja Santa adventure (from top left): corn fritter; blood orange and coriander sorbet; chili sauce for the table and a shot-bowl of tequila and pomegranate for good measure; house pickled vegetables.
As soon as we walked through the doors of Hoja Santa I was transported to Mexico, or at least how I imagined Mexico to be having never been there. Diners around us were lounging around, sipping on margaritas as very efficient waitstaff brought plate after plate of delicious looking morsels. I felt instantly relaxed and could not wait to start on this food journey!
Hoja Santa is one of two Michelin-starred joints associated with Albert Adria in Barcelona (the other being the neighbouring Tickets). The modern but chilled restaurant resonates with beach vibes and offers an extensive menu of Mexican bites. The long list of offerings can be somewhat overwhelming for first-timers and we opted for the tasting menu (€110 p.p.) to minimize the need to think for ourselves.
As someone who has hot sauce at the office to spice up anything and everything in bland Geneva land, I very much appreciated that the first thing we got was a little bowl of green pepper sauce with the advice to use as we like throughout the meal: it will go with everything. This was accompanied by house picked vegetables, deliciously tangy and spicy bits so good that I wished they replenished the supply throughout the meal.
Exception main of slow-cooked duck with salsify, mango sauce and chimichurri
This elegant 25-seater restaurant in the heart of Gràcia district made quite an impression, both with its inventive fusion cuisine and selection of wonderful local wines. When we first walked in, I thought we had intruded on some kind of silent dining experience as there was not a peep from any of the tables. But apparently it was just one of those freaky moments when all conversations paused simultaneously and relatively robust exchanges were carried out throughout the rest of the evening.
Instead of a la carte options, Con Gracia offers two tasting menus of five proper courses – traditional or the surprise “Experiencia”, both €65. Optional wine matching with five Spanish wines sets you back another €35.
It was surprisingly difficult for us to decide whether to choose the surprise menu or not. I think we were unexpectedly enticed by the traditional menu, but refused to accept we could be the kind of eaters that would ever go the traditional route. We flipped a coin and it came up tails, which we had designated the traditional side. Unconvinced, we tried to surreptitiously glance at what the other diners were sampling and were so tormented by the decision I flat-out asked the strangers at the table next to us, who looked to be quite advanced into their meals, what they chose. They had gone with the surprise menu and were having a good time, even pulling out their phone to show us photos of their preceding courses, but were also quick to point out that we may or may not be getting the same dishes.
Beef ribs for two with Bearnaise sauce with traditional sides at Bistrot de Boeuf Rouge
Bistrot de Boeuf Rouge was an early discovery for us in Geneva and this latest experience must be at least the sixth over the past two years. The traditional Lyonaise restaurant is well set-up for return visits: the menu is extensive and varied, and in addition to long lists of entree, main and dessert, specials, they also have seasonal specials such as game meat or asparagus throughout the year. Most (maybe all?) of the pates, foie gras, breads and desserts are made in-house. The atmosphere is jovial and cosy. There is no pretension. But it’s definitely the professional but friendly service and personable staff (who also make flawless wine recommendations) that puts this place a notch above many others in Geneva and keeps us coming back.
Filet de beouf with black pepper and fried foei gras
As its name suggests, Bistrot Dumas serves traditional French food. So traditional you can practically predict the menu; there shall be foie gras and snails and saucisson and frog legs and beef tartare and entrecote. Situated in the neighbourhood of Champel, it might be a little bit out of the way for some. To be frank, we live in the area but I’m not sure Mr. A and I would be returning anytime soon.
Not that we had a terrible evening. The food was hearty, the servings generous and service was friendly and as efficient as it could be with only one person covering all the tables. But I chose to not stay for dessert. I don’t think I’ve ever had dinner in a restaurant and not ordered dessert when desserts were available.
It’s no big secret that Geneva (Switzerland) does not have the best food. Of course there are gems among the fray, but I hope no one is insulted if I declare that, at least upon first glance, the cuisine is rather ordinary. Not a big deal, except the prices are so extraordinarily high, at least for a non-Swiss like me. For better or worse, this combination of blah menu choices with extraordinary price tags means I don’t indulge in my love of eating out as much as I would practically anywhere else. Which means that after two years in this tiny quaint town Mr. A and I are still discovering places to eat.
Le Jardin sits in the rather high-brow Le Richemond hotel, close to the shores of Lac Leman (aka Lake Geneva). There was a doorman, nice decor and lovely bathrooms with hand towels, which in my book makes it a nice establishment. The restaurant itself is quite austere, with cosy booths and wooden furniture. The website declares that “Le Jardin shows its pride to be Swiss and Chef Philippe Bourrel magnifies seasonal local ingredients.” This is definitely a food philosophy I can support! Plus I was expecting pretty good things since it was awarded 16/20 in the Gault & Millau Guide 2017.
Second course: salad of slow cooked carrots, sheep milk feta, smoked almonds, sherry caramel, pepitas, agretti
Sydney and I have a bit of a love hate relationship. When I left its buzz and superficial glamour some eight years ago (!!!) I couldn’t wait to get out. Deep inside I always knew I’m more of a Melbourne girl. But now when I do go back, the sunshine, the beaches and the glorious food are all massive draw cards, especially when one is a temporary visitor and do not have to deal with traffic on motorways and exorbitant housing prices.
This time round Mr. A and I finally made it to a place I’ve been keen to try for some time. I reckon you would be hard-pressed to find a Sydney foodie who doesn’t know of Quay’s formidable reputation. This quote from its website says it all: “Quay has held the coveted 3 Hat & 3 Star rating in The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide & Australian Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide for 13 consecutive years.” Wowsers. Of course, my desire to sample Quay has not been quenched since seeing executive chef Peter Gilmore presenting his celebrated “Snow Egg” to those poor Masterchef wannabes to replicate.
Anna Eats (&) Travels 